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Mares DRAK

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Mares DRAK Empty Mares DRAK

Počalji od Điđi Pon Maj 14, 2012 5:06 am

Ako ima neko da mi očita zarone sa Mares Puck-a, bio bih mu zahvalan. Hvala

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Broj poruka : 49
Godina : 55
Lokacija : Beograd
Datum upisa : 19.01.2010

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Počalji od Điđi Uto Feb 05, 2013 9:33 am

Nabavio sam neku šemu za mares puck interfejs. Ako ima neko neka znanja iz elektronike , neka da neki komentar u smislu "fercera li ovo". Hvala unapred.

https://2img.net/r/ihimg/photo/my-images/826/marespuckschematicbig.jpg/

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Broj poruka : 49
Godina : 55
Lokacija : Beograd
Datum upisa : 19.01.2010

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Počalji od perop Sre Feb 06, 2013 9:36 am

hm, ovo je vise logicka sema, tebi treba fizicka, tipa koja komponenta, koja nozica se za koju veze i slicno... u sustini niko ko se bas ozbiljno bavi elektronikom od ovoga moze da napravi nesto, ja ne Sad

perop

Broj poruka : 32
Datum upisa : 05.03.2010

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Počalji od Điđi Sre Feb 06, 2013 7:31 pm

Ovaj tekst ide uz sliku, ako pomaže.


"I have recently come across a similar situation. I'm tired of the costs of these interface cables being so high. It's just ridiculous. At this point in the game every computer should come with a cable - they're pretty cheap to make. The Mares Drak uses a CP2102 serial to USB converter, a dual NAND gate IC (with two LEDs) and a diode.

I purchased a Mares Drak and (what you could loosely call) reverse engineered it. I found the ICs (chips) that they used and drew up a schematic from what I traced out. I've attached it to this post.

Keep in mind that I have yet to test this and so TRY THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK!

Here is how you make a Drak for under $10.

First, go on eBay and search for CP2102. This will pull up a bunch of USB to TTL converter modules. If you don't want LEDs, you can pick any one. If you do want LEDs, then I suggest one like the link below:

Mini USB To TTL / COM Converter Module build-in CP2102 | eBay

Basically, you just use the power, gnd, TX and RX from the converter to go into the attached circuit. Then connect your Puck to the DIO and GND pins and it should work just fine. If you want to use LEDs you need to connect them to the SUSPEND and /SUSPEND lines. This basically just turns the LEDs off when USB is not active and provides power to the LEDs otherwise.

If you're not using the LEDs any NAND gate IC that operates at about 3.3 volts should work. If you ARE driving LEDs you should probably get one with higher drive currents - I suggest the MC74AC132NG. Digikey.com has them for $1.26 plus shipping.

I suggest that this project be tried only if you know what you're doing. I take no responsibility for blowing up your computer. When I actually build this I will confirm that it works. However, I do this is correct. "

I ovo.


"A quick follow-up to my previous post with the schematic. The Schmitt Trigger NAND gate chip should be powered by the CP2102 board at around 3.3 volts (the CP2102 board should have connections for power, gnd, tx and rx at least). The grounds between the NAND chip and CP2102 board should also be connected together.

Theory of Operation:
1. When the Puck is either not connected or not in PC mode, the green light will be on. This is because the Puck tri-states (lets float) its DIO pin. Without anything to pull the DIO pin high, the 100k resistor pulls the NAND inputs low (pins 1 and 2) which then drive pin 7 high. If the Drak is not in SUSPEND (sleeping or not enumerated on the USB) then pin 12 of the CP2102 will be low which causes current to flow through the green LED, lighting it.

2. When the Puck is connected and put into PC mode, then the DIO pin is pulled high. This pulls NAND inputs high which causes pin 7 to be pulled low. This lights the red LED because current now flows from CP2102 pin 11 to pin 7 through the LED.

3. The PC then sends a message to the Puck. Pin 26 is pulled high normally (its idle state) which allows DIO to be pulled high. When Pin 26 is pulled low (when sending data), current flows through the S7 diode pulling the DIO pin low (to about the forward voltage of the diode).

4. When receiving data, pin 26 stays high, and DIO is toggled by the Puck computer. When DIO is high, pin 7 is low and pin 5 is idling high. This makes pin 25 high. When DIO is pulled low by the Puck, pin 7 (pin 6) is high and because pin 5 is also high pin 25 is toggled low.

This setup uses TX pin 26 as a switch for bi-directional data transfer - when held high, RX can receive. When data is sent and received the LEDs should flash from green to red based on the current state of the DIO line. This circuit also creates something like an open collector connection between the two devices. The data transfer speed is 38400 baud. I'm not sure if just using an open-collector output tied to the RX line would work. The PC would then have a loop-back where it received everything it sent. This depends on the computer software and what it does with the extra data."




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Broj poruka : 49
Godina : 55
Lokacija : Beograd
Datum upisa : 19.01.2010

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Počalji od dak76 Čet Mar 06, 2014 5:33 am

pozdrav
zanima me jel neko napravio ovaj Interface za Mares Puck i jel radi

dak76

Broj poruka : 3
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Lokacija : Beograd
Datum upisa : 30.12.2013

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Počalji od Điđi Čet Mar 06, 2014 6:32 am

Sve sam nabavio, dao to elektroničaru I ..zaboravio na to. Koliko se sećam dobio je neki signal .. I  dalje neznam. Treba da uhvatim njega I sklopim moje vreme I da mi lično pokaže da znam u čemu je problem. Čim nešto saznam, objavi ću. U međuvremenu sam saznao za"smartinterface.de", gde ga prave I prodaju za 38 eura.

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Broj poruka : 49
Godina : 55
Lokacija : Beograd
Datum upisa : 19.01.2010

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